Budget Holiday in South East Asia

Luang Prabang, Laos, January 2011

Diary entry New Year’s Eve 2010. Not too impressed. It’s too touristy with a very French influence. But as the days slip by I like it a little more. It doesn’t have the obvious layers of India. There seems to be a simplicity here that is engaging.

Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage city, is located in north central Laos where the Nam Khan River meets the Mekong. It’s a poor country with a big heart and a small population of about six million people who are predominantly Buddhist.

Luang Prabang is without a doubt extremely picturesque. At peak times like Christmas and New Year it's packed with tourists who choose from a vast array of accommodation that caters to all budgets. Unfortunately the beds are not so varied and all are hard, very hard. Visitors are all reminded by way of signs that the locals expect them to be neatly attired as a sign of respect. The local population, while poor, are always clean and polite - manners cost nothing!

Getting there - Tourists pour in from the south by bus, by plane or by long boats from Thailand and the more adventurous come overland on motor bikes. It’s an easy place to get around, devoid of hassles and a great place to rest up after the buzz of Thailand or Vietnam.

Food - There’s good food with fresh baguettes daily, fresh coffee, vegetables, loads of fruit and French patisseries. The main street is a tourist Mecca with night markets dominating the landscape every evening which, after a night or two, can be overwhelming but easy to avoid by using the lane ways running parallel to the main road.

Attractions - But venture away from the hub and it’s a charming place. Laneways open to gardens, Buddhist temples and the many shops offering effective and cheap massages.

In the evening the back lanes offer food and plenty of it. It’s cheap and authentic but watch out for the chillies.

In the early morning on the main road, while the river’s mist still hovers, a line of saffron robed monks appear, bowl in hand as the locals offer them food.Tourists go into a camera-clicking frenzy at this sight which can be a little disturbing as the young monks shy away from such worldly, in-your-face behaviour.

Meanwhile the lane ways are stirring as the locals set up their growers' food market with fruit, fish, clothes and chopped up animals complete with fur.

There’s plenty to do or little to do depending on your mood. For some it’s a walk across one of the bamboo bridges to a point overlooking the river where a cold drink under the shade of a thatched roof offers a view of the long boats moving up and down the water.

There are slow boats that make their way to the Buddha caves, stopping along the way for passengers to take in a local village to buy souvenirs including glass jars holding pickled snakes or a bottle of locally brewed Mekong whiskey.

Language - Language can be a problem with few locals mastering English which makes it difficult to get an insight into the place. In Lao there is no past or future tense, everything is present tense, in the now: “So if you don’t need English now, then there is no need for English.”

For travellers wanting to get involved there is Big Brother Mouse – a drop in centre for students who want to learn and practice their English. It’s a rewarding morning and the students are very eager and grateful for the interaction.

Something to do for everyone - Step outside into the surrounding countryside and Laos offers up a travellers’ wonderland of cascading waterfalls, elephant rides, tubing, kayaking, motor cycle hire, walks and general chilling-out in one of the most laid back environments known to man. And it’s cheap, cheap, cheap.

Luang Prabang is tidy and clean and described as one of the most charming cities in all of South-East Asia. UNESCO and local business owners have reigned in mass tourist development but, but for how much longer remains to be seen.

With the country’s close proximity to the China, rumour has it that a large airfield is soon to be built along with a casino so the Chinese neighbours can enjoy a spot of luxury while gambling.